Mikan (tangerines; mandarins; satsumas) are a winter treat. Light in the palm of the hand, spherical, seedless, citrus, and with a loose orange skin coarse with pores, they are available here in Kanto from November to February, the first brought from the far south, then Chubu, and finally ripening in local orchards. You can pick up a plastic bag of 10 or 12 at a roadside stand or supermarket. Or save a lot of money by buying a carton.
Take a mikan. Stick your thumb into the skin near the crown, releasing a spritz of zesty oil. Smell it for a moment in the air, and lingering on your fingers. Tear the peel from top to bottom, keeping it in one piece until the fruit lies nestled in the jagged white petals of its skin. Lift the fruit free and, removing the remaining veins of white pith, pull it into sections eaten one at a time, each self-contained and releasing its juice when chewed. The remaining membrane is easily swallowed. When all is consumed, fold the empty peel into an orange ball.
I'm now enjoying the last mikan of the season, sweet and thick skinned, harvested locally and late from the orchards on the hillsides above Sagami Bay, brought by a farmer who sells them door to door from his pick-up truck, weighing them out at 10 kilograms for 2000 yen, the same price as every year. Soon they'll be gone. When they appear again in nine months time, they'll be all the more delicious for the anticipation.
Carton of mikan;
A sweet pleasure
for the coldest days of the year
--Julian
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