Today is the Autumn Equinox, and the higanbana spider lilies are coming into bloom. To my unprejudiced eyes, they've always been as beautiful as the daffodils they resemble in size: long green stalks with a spindly flower on top; splashes of scarlet on roadsides, riverbanks, around paddy fields, carpeting orchards.
But in Japan the beauty was veiled, for here higanbana are viewed as embodiments of death. However that point of view started--perhaps because the blooms are the color of blood; because they uniquely grow and flower without leaves; because the filigreed heads are as sinister as the spiders they resemble; because they bloom at the equinox when people visit the graves of their ancestors; because their love of moist, disturbed ground leads them to colonize graveyards--the sight of spider lilies in bloom provoked shivers rather than rapture.
But a change of attitude is coming, and fast. Here in Chigasaki, it went unremarked that higanbana make a spectacular show along the banks of the nearby Koidegawa river (or what's left of the Koidegawa, encased as it is in concrete). But year by year, more people out for a day in the country stopped their cars to take in the sight, and were even drawn to walk the banks among the hosts of flowers. Then a few years ago a nature park opened nearby and the seasonal blooms appeared on its maps of local flora and fauna, bringing even more people to admire them.
Perhaps the change came as traditional relationships with nature unravel, leaving urban residents free to respond to beauty as they see it. Perhaps it came from the loosening of family ties, with generations living apart and lessons not being passed on the way they used to be. Masaya remembers his grandmother telling him not to trample or pick spider lilies because when people die their souls enter them. But last Sunday we saw a couple walking with a little boy happily running and waving one of the flowers about.
Finally this year the scales have tipped. Next Saturday (September 27), the 1st Koidegawa Higanbana Festival will be held. With a contemporary understanding of the financial benefits of tourism, local people will sell vegetables, crafts and cotton candy to the visitors.
And the beauty of the flowers will be celebrated without prejudice.
--Julian
[this is good] I saw these flowers in Misaki at this time last year, mainly near the graveyards as you mentioned, but didn't know what they were and forgot to ask. Thanks for sharing this.
Posted by: humbletree | 09/29/2008 at 10:10 AM
You're welcome, and thanks for writing.
--Julian
Posted by: Only a Blockhead | 09/29/2008 at 11:11 AM