For residents of Tokyo and vicinity who don't have the time and money to go to Okinawa, there's a closer, cheaper alternative. The Izu island of Niijima is an overnight ferry away, or 2.5 hours on the hydrofoil. The light is bright, the sea is blue and clear, the sand is white and the flat-roofed houses are like a Greek island. The sea is a degree or two colder than here in Shonan, but still invites swimming. The island has an aging and dwindling population, and the mood is slow and down to earth.
Close by the port there is a outdoor hot spring bath that overlooks the ocean. A 15-minute walk up from the port is Maehama Beach, protected by tetrapods. What it lacks in aesthetic charm it gains in lagoon-like swimming conditions. Habushiura Beach, a ten-minute rented cycle ride across the island from the port, has surfing waves and endless white sands. During summer vacation, the beaches are watched over by cheerful and disciplined lifeguards. There are a handful of stores and restaurants. A craft factory just up the hill from the hot spring uses local stone to produce olive-green glass.
Among the memories we took away from a weekend in this paradise were walking and cycling along quiet streets under the baking sun, watching the sunset from the hot spring before a dinner of Izu island sushi (regular sushi lightly brushed with a savory sauce that takes the place of dipping it in soy sauce). And a magical early-morning swim in the deserted lagoon before the lifeguards came on duty.
It isn't Okinawa, but it's close.
--Julian
Getting there: Tokai Kisen (03-5472-9999) overnight ferry from Takeshiba Pier in Tokyo to Niijima, and "jet ferry" back was about 20,000 yen round trip per person;
Accomodation: free campsite with basic amenities; cheap minshuku; or "Grand Hotel" around 16,000 yen per night.
The hot spring is free; a dozen stores rent bicycles for 1,500 yen per day.
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