These are some of the things that struck me on my first visit to the country.
The people: Their helpfulness and warmth time and again lifted my spirits. Japan and the UK (the countries I’ve spent most time in) aren’t exactly noted for rudeness, but Australia takes encounters, both service and otherwise, to another level by adding an emotional connection best described as naked, fearless empathy. Even the traffic cop who warned us for speeding sent us off with a smile and… a pat on the back!
Pioneers: On the West Coast, we were among folks just a couple of generations from the first settlers. Almost every house, old or new, was a bungalow, the cheapest form of building when land is plentiful. Storefronts inevitably had an overhang to protect customers and merchandise from the sun. The inland towns still have the look of the American old West.
Native population: In the West and Centre, the marginalized Aborigines were almost invisible to us, but the tourist industry depends on the life they led. We saw sacred sites and cave paintings. The hotels and gift shops are full of Aboriginal art, and books about their former nomadic existence on land now taken for agriculture.
The Southern Hemisphere: As curious visitors from the north, we were disappointed that the toilet flushes were too powerful to verify that water swirls counterclockwise. But the night sky was definitely different, featuring the Southern Cross and Scorpius magnificently visible even on the night of the full moon.
Extraordinary wildlife: Flocks of parakeet, some green, some white, some pink, flitted through the eucalyptus trees. Sadly, the only kangaroo we encountered was (enormous) roadkill. This explained the local TV ads for grills welded to the front of cars and trucks.
The natural beauty: The red sands and rocks of the bush and the deserts are awe-inspiring, and Uluru/Ayers Rock, the crown jewel, does not disappoint.
The flies: billions of them. Savvy tourists to the dry Centre wear nets over their heads, and the rest of us flap our hands in front of our faces.
On the way home we spent a few hours in Sydney. It’s one of the world’s great cities. The stunning Opera House presents music and dance from around the world, and features upscale restaurants overlooking the city center harbor. For the less well-heeled, waterfront café terraces and bars offer views of the graceful harbor bridge and the ferries coming and going from outlying communities. We didn’t even get to the beaches. Throughout our trip, we heard from past and present residents alike that this was the city that held their affection.
--Julian
Julian:
You didn't miss anything:
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Posted by: Only a Blockhead | 09/15/2009 at 10:50 AM