The other weekend, we took our bicycles to the Miura Peninsula and cycled along the coast in the hot sun. There were picturesque fishing ports and rocky cliffs. We stopped off at beaches for a swim and steaming bowls of salty ramen in beach house restaurants.
With its tuna catch in freefall, the fishing port of Misaki in the south is in economic decline. After a superb fish dinner, we visit a bar where we learn that Konan High School in Okinawa beat the local Kanagawa team to secure the 92nd Koshien High School Baseball Championship that afternoon. After the TV news, ageing stars sung popular songs from the Showa Era. When we left, we were still the only customers, just as we were at the portside ryokan where we spent the night. The breeze that blew through the open windows from across the water was cool, and later at night even cold belying the summer. Fishing boats puttered into the harbor in the middle of the night, and fishermen and women were hard at work before dawn.
The next day, we passed more picturesque ports and rocky shores, and stopped to swim at the beaches as we made our way up the coast and home.
--Julian