I had an adventure. I posted about it on Facebook, but figured I'd put up a slightly edited version here as well.
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I'm sitting in a cafe in Hanoi remembering how, a few years back when I was first getting interested in this trail running malarkey, I used to lurk at the Tokyo Trail Running website hoping to pick up some knowledge. I did, and one of the tidbits I picked up was about a crazy race in Vietnam called the Vietnam Mountain Marathon. It was 42km through what sounded like some very rugged mountains. My long runs in those days were maybe 15km with about 800 meters of vert, so though the VMM sounded wonderful, it also sounded entirely out of my league.
Fast forward a few years and here I am, a finisher in the VMM (114th overall out of 725 participants, 88th male, and 6th in my age group). That, to me, counts as a successful run, and I owe that success in large part to TTR and the friends I've made there, nuts like Wye Khe, Elma, David V., and Kana who have been willing to join me on the Hakone trails in pouring rain and the mud and slipperiness that come with that, excellent training, it turned out, for the VMM.
Which brings me to the race. Although we had beautiful weather on race day, it had poured the night before (the 100km runners were out in it—respect). That meant that the trails were a muddy mucky mess, for which muddy mucky Hakone had prepared me well. The race started with a couple of km on road before bringing us to the trail and the first of the day's four major climbs, the longest and the steepest, followed up with a long technical downhill. This beginning, it seemed to me, would be a harbinger of what was to come. If you could do it without destroying yourself, you'd have a good run.
It was tough. Some might even break out the B-word (brutal), but it wasn't any tougher than lots of intermediate and above TTR runs. If you can do those without killing yourself you'll probably be okay at VMM. Although I did slip a couple of times on the descent, I came out of that section with some confidence, and also a lot of joy. The landscape through which we were running was stunning, and meeting some bovines (cows? buffalo?) at the top of the 2000+m peak was a pleasant surprise, the first of many animal encounters that day. (They could run faster than me.)
I can't remember if it was before or after the first aid station where we first made our way through the terraced rice fields characteristic of the area. This was a major muck zone and also featured some rickety bamboo bridges. In some ways it was as challenging as the climbs and descents, though most of us, by this point, had given up trying to avoid the muck and slogged right through it, so there's that. (There are lots of domestic animals on and around the course, so some of the "mud" we waded through was probably not mud.)
From here things get a bit more impressionistic, and the biggest impression was made by the hill tribe people through whose fields and villages we were running. They were ready with smiles, waves, and hellos, and also offered bamboo poles for sale to runners whose knees has failed them. By the end of the race even the smallest children were accomplished high-fivers.
At 27km, just before the third climb, I bought a Coca Cola from one of the hill tribe ladies (I'm not sponsored by the Coca Cola Bottling Company) drank it, and immediately got genki. A feeling that stayed with me until the end of the race, even through the long paved downhill that finished the thing. I flew past scads of runners whose knees were clearly giving them trouble. Mine (thank you, Coca Cola) were fine.
The whole race experience including busses from Hanoi to Sa Pa, the hotel, the aid stations, the medical team, the staff, and the post-race festivities, was brilliant. There was never the slightest hiccup.
I would recommend this race (and the 70km and 100km versions for the hardcore beasts) highly, with one caveat: there was a bit more pavement than I expected: maybe 30 percent? I didn't mind it myself as it was almost all beautiful country roads or paved trails through stunning areas. It was nice to open the legs up. Trail purists, though, may feel differently.
—David